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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.